A dry paw pad, an abrasion, a burn and a paw that is constantly being licked are not the same problem. The most useful first step is to look at what the damage actually is and only then decide whether it needs simple care, first aid or a veterinarian.<\/p>\n
I have been a dog owner for more than 20 years, yet Faddu’s paw-pad problem once caught me completely by surprise. We had been walking a lot with the boys, and I had also been running with Faddu. One evening he went outside and, for a moment, his hindquarters seemed almost unsteady. Because he had been diagnosed with spondylosis, my thoughts naturally went straight to his back. But when I checked his paws, the pads were very dry and cracked, with lighter areas in places.<\/p>\n
At the time, I gave his paws a mild povidone-iodine soak, applied coconut oil to the pads and let him rest. About an hour later he was moving much better again. Looking back, I cannot honestly say that the paw pads were the only cause or that those two home measures acted as a ‘treatment’. But it taught me one very practical lesson: if a dog suddenly limps, licks a paw or does not want to move, it is worth actually checking the paws rather than assuming the cause must be somewhere else.<\/p>\n
Paw pads carry a dog’s body weight with every step. They cushion impact, help with grip and balance, and protect deeper tissues from rough surfaces and temperature extremes. They are durable, but not indestructible.<\/p>\n
The surface of a paw pad does not need to be baby-soft. Some roughness and a strong keratin layer are normal. It becomes a problem when the surface cracks deeply, bleeds, becomes painful, swells, develops discharge or a bad smell, or the dog begins licking the paw constantly or avoids putting weight on it.<\/p>\n
Paw licking is a symptom, not a diagnosis. Allergy is one possible cause, but not the only one. Check the entire paw:<\/p>\n
If the pads are abnormally thickened and keratinised, see also FendaF’s article on hyperkeratosis<\/a>.<\/p>\n If the main issue is itching and repeated licking, you may also find Itchy skin in dogs: 10 natural remedies<\/a> helpful.<\/p>\n If a paw pad is simply dry and rough, but is not bleeding or oozing and the dog is not limping, gentle cleaning and a protective moisturising layer may help. A fragrance-free, non-irritating paw balm made for dogs and containing ingredients such as beeswax, shea butter, jojoba oil or coconut oil may reduce water loss and help keep the pad more flexible.<\/p>\n Coconut oil can act as an emollient, meaning it can soften the skin and reduce dryness, but I would not treat it as medication for an open wound or infection. The same applies to calendula, shea butter and other oils: they may be useful as care products, but ‘natural’ does not automatically mean suitable for every dog, every lesion or unlimited licking.<\/p>\n Paw-pad wounds can be deceptively troublesome because the dog steps on the wound with every stride and pad tissue does not hold sutures as well as many other tissues. This does not mean paw-pad wounds are never sutured: some superficial or contaminated wounds may be left to heal open, while a deep or full-thickness tear may require surgical closure and reduced weight bearing. The decision depends on the depth and location of the wound, contamination and how old the injury is.<\/p>\n Home first aid is intended as temporary care for a minor injury, not as a way to ‘treat away’ a deep cut or a painful paw.<\/p>\n Povidone-iodine, such as Betadine, is a genuine antiseptic and is also used in veterinary medicine. In integrative practice, a diluted povidone-iodine paw soak is sometimes recommended for irritated paws. In Faddu’s case, it helped at least in the sense that the paws were cleaned and he seemed more comfortable afterwards.<\/p>\n There is, however, an important nuance: ‘add iodine until the water looks like iced tea’ is too imprecise to be the only instruction. Povidone-iodine products can come in different concentrations, and an overly strong antiseptic can irritate healing tissue. In conventional wound care, sterile saline is one of the gentlest irrigation fluids for healing tissue, and a correctly diluted antiseptic may be used when appropriate. If the paw is bleeding, deeply damaged, extensively burned or suspected to be infected, it is worth consulting a veterinarian rather than relying only on a povidone-iodine paw soak.<\/p>\n In summer, pavement exposed to the sun can become hot enough to burn a dog’s paws. A useful simple guide is the 5-second hand test: place your palm or the back of your hand against the pavement or another hard surface. If you cannot comfortably keep it there for about five seconds, choose a cooler surface or walk later. Some guidance uses a 7-second version of the same test. It is not a precise temperature measurement and does not guarantee that prolonged walking is safe, but in everyday situations it can quickly flag a surface that is clearly too hot.<\/p>\n In winter, ice, cold, road salt and other chemicals spread on streets can cause problems; after winter walks in town, it is sensible to rinse and dry the paws.<\/p>\n If a dog begins licking its paws or limping after walking on a hot surface, cool the paw with room-temperature or cool water. Blisters, marked colour change, exposed tissue or obvious pain need veterinary attention. If a chemical gets on the paw, rinse with plenty of water and, if the substance is corrosive or of unknown composition, contact a veterinarian promptly.<\/p>\n What I like about an integrative approach is the idea of using the gentlest support possible when the problem truly is mild. Chamomile and calendula are interesting plants, and a systematic review in veterinary dermatology found antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and wound-healing-related properties. At the same time, much of the evidence came from laboratory or other preclinical work, with less high-quality clinical evidence in dogs. I therefore see them more as complementary options in an appropriate preparation, not as primary treatment for an open or infected wound.<\/p>\n With the previously discussed salt-chamomile-aloe paw soak, it is worth separating the individual components.<\/p>\n A very salty solution can irritate and dry the skin, and the claim that sea salt is inherently a ‘fast-healing antibacterial agent’ is too strong. Plain water or sterile saline is a more reliable starting point for cleaning a paw. Chamomile can be considered a gentle complementary herbal option, while aloe is better used separately as a gel after cleaning when the paw is dry or mildly irritated rather than deeply open or suspected to be infected.<\/p>\n With aloe, the most important point is which part of the plant we mean. Use only the clear gel from inside the leaf. The green rind and the yellowish latex layer beneath it contain, among other compounds, aloin and should not be given to the dog or left attached to the gel. The ASPCA also distinguishes the problematic leaf components from the inner gel and notes the gel as edible. If you use a fresh leaf, remove the rind and yellowish layer completely and rinse the clear gel before use. If you buy a prepared gel, choose a product that is as pure and aloin-free as possible. A small amount of gel can be applied in a thin layer to a dry or mildly irritated paw pad, but a deep, bleeding or potentially infected lesion needs a different approach.<\/p>\n Cooled chamomile tea is also used in integrative veterinary medicine for mild irritation around the eyes and tearing. It can be used with a clean compress or cotton pad to gently clean the area around the eye. Some holistic veterinarians also describe well-strained chamomile tea as an eye rinse, but because tea prepared at home is not sterile, we prefer sterile saline for rinsing the eye itself. Pain, squinting, heavy discharge, injury or persistent redness warrants veterinary assessment.<\/p>\n For persistent licking and self-inflicted skin damage, also read Lick granuloma or acral lick dermatitis<\/a>.<\/p>\n Paw pads do not need a daily ten-jar ritual. Most of the time they need three things: sensible loading, regular checks and the right response when something changes. A dry, rough but healthy pad may simply need protective moisturising. An abrasion needs cleaning and rest. A bleeding, burned, deeply cracked or persistently painful paw already needs a different plan.<\/p>\n When home care comes into play, the principle is simple: gentle does not automatically mean effective, and natural does not automatically mean safe. Use the simplest solution that works, watch how the dog responds and do not let the balm jar distract from the question of why the paw hurts in the first place.<\/p>\n A dry paw pad, an abrasion, a burn and a paw that is constantly being licked are not the same problem. The most useful first step is to look at what the damage actually is and only then decide whether it needs simple care, first aid or a veterinarian. I have been a dog owner […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":188975,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[767,698,760],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-188970","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-general-health-prevention","category-health","category-joints-muscles-mobility"],"acf":[],"featured_image_src":{"landsacpe":["https:\/\/fendaf.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dog-paw-pads-1.png",300,300,false],"list":["https:\/\/fendaf.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dog-paw-pads-1.png",300,300,false],"medium":["https:\/\/fendaf.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dog-paw-pads-1.png",300,300,false],"full":["https:\/\/fendaf.ee\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/06\/dog-paw-pads-1.png",300,300,false]},"yoast_head":"\nDry and rough, but healthy paw pads<\/h2>\n
Abrasion, cut or torn paw pad: first-aid principles<\/h2>\n
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What about a povidone-iodine paw soak?<\/h2>\n
Hot pavement, cold, road salt and chemicals<\/h2>\n
Chamomile, calendula, salt and aloe: where do they fit?<\/h2>\n
Chamomile tea around the eyes: an integrative option, but sterility matters<\/h2>\n
When does a paw need a veterinarian?<\/h2>\n
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How can paw problems be prevented?<\/h2>\n
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In summary<\/h2>\n
Sources used<\/h3>\n
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