Should a large breed puppy eat puppy food until 12, 18 or 24 months of age? This question is often given very definite answers. I don’t think you should judge by the calendar alone. A puppy doesn’t become an adult the day it reaches a certain number of months of age, and especially in the case of large breeds, development can continue long after the dog looks like an adult.
\nThat’s why it’s more important for me to understand how a puppy grows, what it needs in terms of food at that time, and when its body is truly ready to move on to the next stage of life.
\nWhy isn’t puppy food just a smaller kibble?
\nA puppy’s body is building bones, muscles, and other tissues at the same time. To do this, it needs a different energy and nutrient balance than an adult dog. High-quality protein, essential fatty acids, and the right ratio of calcium and phosphorus are important. It’s not a question of more calories being better. Excess energy can actually accelerate weight gain and increase the strain on growing joints.
\nLarge and giant breed puppies are particularly sensitive to this. Their growth continues for longer, and excessively rapid growth or mineral imbalances can adversely affect skeletal development. Therefore, I would not choose adult dog food for a large puppy just because he is already big, nor would I add calcium to a complete food just in case. It is important that the entire menu is suitable for the growing dog and its expected adult size.
\nHow long does it take for a puppy to actually grow?
\nA small breed puppy usually reaches physical maturity much earlier than a large or giant breed dog. Even within the same breed, the pace of development can vary. Based on the growth periods discussed by Dr. Karen Shaw Becker and the Bark & \u200b\u200bWhiskers puppy growth overview, the following approximate age ranges can be used:
\nDog size group\tPhysical maturation landmark
\nToy breeds\t8\u201312 months
\nSmall breeds\t9\u201312 months
\nMedium breeds\t12\u201315 months
\nLarge breeds\t15\u201318 months
\nVery large and giant breeds\t18\u201324 months
\nThese time periods describe physical development, not mandatory food change dates. If a large dog continues to grow at 20 months, it is not reasonable to assume that his needs have automatically changed at 18 months. At the same time, not every 24-month-old dog necessarily needs puppy food. The decision depends on the dog, the growth rate, and the composition of the specific food.
\nGrowth plates explain why large breeds need more time
\nAt the ends of a puppy’s bones are growth plates, through which the bones lengthen. As they grow, they gradually close. In smaller dogs, this process is generally completed earlier; in larger dogs, skeletal maturation can take much longer.
\nPuppy development also occurs in stages. In the first few weeks, their senses open up and they begin to move, and in the following months, learning, socialization, and bone and muscle growth accelerate. Many dogs reach adolescence around 6\u201312 months of age, but large breeds can continue to develop physically for another 12\u201324 months. Therefore, it is worth considering more than just what an adult dog looks like when choosing a food.
\nIf growth is normal, there is no need to take X-rays just to change the feed bag. However, if there is lameness, pain, unusual limb development, or other orthopedic problems, your veterinarian may use imaging to assess the condition of the growth plates and joints.
\nWhy I kept Oscar on puppy food for 24 months
\nOscar has made this topic very personal for me. Oscar had bony processes in his elbow joints that had not fused properly when he was young, and I decided to keep him on puppy food until he was 24 months old. Looking back, I consider it one of the best decisions I ever made. Years later, he still went on weekly walks of about ten kilometers with us.
\nI can’t prove from one dog that it was the longer use of puppy food that changed the course of his joints. However, this is my own experience and one reason why I don’t advocate a rigid “18 months and then change” rule for large breeds. The individual growth rate that Becker emphasizes fits well with this idea: the time to switch to adult food must be based on the development of the individual dog.
\nIs it worth supporting bones and joints in addition to food?
\nI am sometimes asked whether a large breed puppy should be given a bone or joint supplement. My own experience here is rather positive. Faddu received a joint supplement as a puppy and has not had any bone or joint problems. Does this prove that the supplement prevented them? No. But it is an experience that I do not consider necessary to keep quiet.
\nHowever, a distinction must be made here between a preparation intended for joints and additional calcium. If a puppy eats a complete food suitable for its size and growth period, additional calcium is not automatically necessary and an excessive amount can upset the mineral balance. With other supplements, it is also worth looking at the specific composition, purpose and needs of the dog. We can talk about support without making the same can mandatory for every puppy.
\nWhen changing food, follow the dog, not just the age
\nThe feeding guidelines on the food package are a good starting point, but they don’t know your dog. During growth, I primarily monitor body condition, growth rate, musculature, appetite, and digestion. The puppy should grow evenly and remain in a rather lean body condition. Being “round with a spare” is not an advantage for a growing dog.
\nIf the weight is gaining too quickly, I would first review the amount of food and treats, rather than arbitrarily reducing the nutrients needed for growth. If growth slows unexpectedly, the puppy loses weight, vomits repeatedly, has persistent diarrhea, or is limping, the situation needs a more detailed evaluation. Not everything can be solved by simply buying a new bag of food.
\nExercise is also part of healthy growth. Free play and walks appropriate for the puppy’s age support development. It is especially worth avoiding repeated, high-impact physical exertion, and not declaring, for example, that all stairs are automatically prohibited for all dogs under 18 months of age.
\nWhen your puppy seems ready for the next stage of his life, make the transition gradually. A dog with a particularly sensitive digestive system may need to be introduced to the new food more slowly. Also, the new complete food should meet his actual needs, not just be labeled “adult dog” on the packaging.
\nIf you would like to read more about how to choose the right food for your puppy and how to combine dry, wet and fresh food in a balanced way, you can find it in our article. “Feeding the puppy”.
\nWhat can you take away from this as a puppy owner?
\nFor me, the question is not whether puppy food should be stopped at exactly 12, 18 or 24 months of age. The question is whether the dog is still growing and whether its current diet meets what its body needs at the moment. The age limit on the package can help you orient yourself, but the final decision is still up to the dog itself.
\nFendaF’s practical reminder: transitioning from puppy food
\n1. Choose a complete food suitable for the growing period, taking into account the puppy’s expected adult size.
\n2. Use age ranges as a guideline, not as a deadline for automatic food changes.
\n3. Regularly monitor body condition, growth rate, and stool and adjust daily intake if necessary.
\n4. Don’t add calcium just in case; the entire menu and the actual composition of the supplement must be evaluated.
\n5. Make food changes gradually; if there is lameness, growth failure, or persistent digestive problems, look for the cause.
\nSources used
\nBark & \u200b\u200bWhiskers (2025). Puppy Growth.
\nFEDIAF (2025). Nutritional Guidelines for Complete and Complementary Pet Food for Cats and Dogs.
\nWSAVA. Global Nutrition Guidelines.
\nWSAVA. Choosing a Pet Food (2021).<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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