I have always thought a dog\u2019s diet need not be boring. If the main food suits the dog and they feel well, a small fresh addition can bring new flavours, textures and nutrients to the bowl. That does not mean every meal needs five powders, or that a good dry food only becomes good once we add something. Sometimes an egg, a couple of berries or a spoonful of plain yoghurt is enough.<\/p>\n
One point is worth making straight away: if we regularly add extra calories to the main food, the total daily amount still needs to be appropriate. Replacing a substantial part of a balanced main diet with unplanned extras can upset its nutritional balance. This is particularly important for puppies, growing large breeds and dogs with chronic disease. Still, one berry or a spoonful of yoghurt or kefir does not overturn the nutritional balance of the whole diet.<\/p>\n
Below are five foods or food groups I have used with my own dogs or discussed with customers.<\/p>\n
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Eggs supply readily usable protein, fat, choline, and various vitamins and minerals. They have been part of my dogs\u2019 diet for a long time. I have preferred offering them raw, especially the yolk, and buy free-range or organic eggs where possible. That is my practice, rather than a requirement that eggs must be raw to be healthy.<\/p>\n
Cooked egg-white protein is generally more digestible than raw egg-white protein. Raw eggs also carry a risk of Salmonella and other pathogens. Raw egg white contains avidin, which binds biotin. An occasional egg does not usually create a clinical problem, but feeding large amounts of raw egg white alone over a long period is not sensible. A lightly boiled, unseasoned egg is therefore a straightforward option for most households.<\/p>\n
One large egg provides approximately 70\u201380 kcal. That may not seem much for a large dog, but for a small dog it can account for a substantial share of the day\u2019s extra calories. There is no need to offer a whole egg; half or a quarter may be plenty. I would consider the entire day\u2019s diet rather than blindly follow a rule of \u201cone egg for every dog\u201d.<\/p>\n
Another familiar addition in our home is plain yoghurt or kefir. Many dogs enjoy them, and they can make dry food more appealing. Fermented dairy products may contain live microbial cultures, but that does not mean every yoghurt is a clinically proven probiotic or a treatment for diarrhoea. The strain, amount and animal\u2019s condition matter.<\/p>\n
I would choose a plain product without added sugar or flavourings. A sugar-free human dessert may contain xylitol<\/a>, which is dangerous for dogs. Dogs also vary in their tolerance of milk sugar, or lactose. If yoghurt causes gas or soft stools, there is no point continuing to give it in the name of \u201cgut support\u201d.<\/p>\n Start with a teaspoon or a few small mouthfuls and monitor tolerance. Choose an appropriate fat level, but for a dog requiring a low-fat diet, the product and amount need particular consideration. Yoghurt is a small extra, rather than a universal digestive treatment.<\/p>\n For me, sardines<\/a> are among the more interesting small fish. They provide animal protein and the long-chain omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. These compounds matter when we discuss supporting, for example, a dog\u2019s skin or joints and whether additional omega-3 is needed. The ALA in plant seed oils is not interchangeable with EPA and DHA.<\/p>\n Sardines canned in water can be convenient, but always read the label. I have previously said that I have found it difficult to locate tins without added salt in Estonian shops. That is why I have not used much canned fish in my own dogs\u2019 diet. If you find a suitable product, choose a low-salt or no-added-salt version where possible, and avoid sauces, onions and strong seasonings.<\/p>\n A small sardine may provide a few tens of kilocalories, but fish size and preparation make a substantial difference. The same is true of the milligrams of EPA and DHA. If the aim is a therapeutic omega-3 dose, I would not calculate it simply by counting fish. That requires the actual content, the dog\u2019s weight, the entire diet and the intended goal.<\/p>\n Blueberries, raspberries<\/a>, carrots, cucumber, courgette and a little broccoli may suit many dogs. They provide varying amounts of water, fibre, minerals and plant compounds. One dog enjoys a chilled piece of carrot; another prefers finely chopped or lightly cooked vegetables. There is no need to search for a single superfood that solves every problem.<\/p>\n Preparation affects digestion and the availability of individual nutrients. Heat can make some compounds more available while reducing others. It is therefore not accurate to say all vegetables are always better raw or always better cooked. Very large portions can cause gas or diarrhoea, and some plants require particular caution.<\/p>\n I never give dogs grapes or raisins: they can cause acute kidney injury, and a safe quantity cannot reliably be predicted. Also avoid onions and other alliums, and large fruit stones and hard seeds. I remove apple cores and seeds before serving. Fruit is not a main food, and portions should stay small, particularly when offered as treats.<\/p>\n I like the idea that a dog can occasionally enjoy the flavours of real food too. A little unseasoned cooked meat or steamed vegetable left in the pot can be a sensible small addition. But \u201chuman food\u201d does not automatically mean \u201cfood suitable for dogs\u201d. We often use more salt, fat and seasoning than a dog needs or tolerates well.<\/p>\n I am especially cautious with fatty cooking scraps, sauces made with onion and garlic, chocolate, xylitol-containing products and cooked bones. Strongly seasoned food does not become a better addition for a dog simply because it was cooked at home. The safest approach is to set aside a small portion for the dog before adding salt and seasonings.<\/p>\n And those extras count. However innocent one piece of meat looks, it still contains calories. For small dogs in particular, an entire extra meal can accumulate almost unnoticed.<\/p>\n I have previously discussed adding up to 25% fresh food. Integrative nutrition does sometimes use larger fresh-food proportions, but we need to distinguish between occasional extras and a deliberately balanced mixed diet. WSAVA\u2019s practical advice is generally to keep treats and other foods that are not complete and balanced to around 10% or less of daily energy. That leaves enough room for the complete main diet to provide the necessary nutrients.<\/p>\n If you want to replace, for example, a quarter of the calories with home-prepared food, raw meat or other additions, it is no longer simply a \u201chandful of good things\u201d. The diet needs deliberate balancing<\/a> for calcium, phosphorus, fatty acids, vitamins and more. No percentage is intended as a punishment: the aim is to prevent good intentions from causing deficiencies over time.<\/p>\n Raw eggs and yoghurt or kefir have been familiar additions for our dogs for years. I have not needed to weigh Faddu\u2019s and Ossu\u2019s food to the gram every day, because I have monitored their body condition and activity. Things have been different with Irene\u2019s Labrador Peku, and now S\u00fcsi too: sometimes they seem to gain weight just by looking at food. \ud83d\ude04 The same small extra can therefore be pleasant variety for one dog and a reason to adjust the daily ration for another.<\/p>\n No recommendation printed on a bag knows your dog\u2019s daily activity, muscle mass or appetite as well as you do. If activity changes or a dog regularly leaves food, consider the whole day rather than insisting that every portion must be eaten at all costs. At the same time, a sudden appetite change or weight loss may signal illness, so it should not automatically be explained away as the dog simply having eaten enough the previous evening.<\/p>\n Choose one suitable addition at a time. Start small and observe how your dog tolerates it. Include all foods, oils, chews and training treats in the daily energy total, and do not let unplanned extras crowd out the balanced main diet. If an animal is ill, on a special diet or growing rapidly, choose additions according to their particular needs. Meals can be varied and enjoyable without every bowl becoming a small laboratory.<\/p>\n I have also preferred raw eggs, but cooked egg white is generally more digestible, and cooking reduces bacterial risk. A plain boiled egg is a practical choice for a healthy dog.<\/p>\n Not necessarily. Yoghurt may contain live cultures, but a therapeutic effect depends on the particular strain, amount and research. Choose a plain product and monitor lactose tolerance.<\/p>\n Yes, if the fish itself is suitable and the tin contains no dangerous seasonings. Prefer fish canned in water with little salt, and account for calories and the actual fatty acid content.<\/p>\n No. They can cause acute kidney injury in dogs, and a safe portion is not known. Contact a vet immediately if a dog swallows them.<\/p>\n Not if the remaining 75% is a complete food and the additions themselves are unbalanced. Foods that are not complete and balanced are generally kept to 10% or less of calories; a larger share calls for balancing the entire diet.<\/p>\n Whole Dog Journal. The original five-food overview on which FendaF\u2019s earlier article was based: https:\/\/www.whole-dog-journal.com\/food\/dog_food\/5-steps-to-enhancing-your-dogs-store-bought-dog-food\/<\/a><\/p>\n WSAVA Nutrition Committee. Feeding treats to your dog (2024): https:\/\/wsava.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/06\/Feeding-treats-to-your-dog-v2.pdf<\/a><\/p>\n FDA. Salmonella and raw pet-food safety: https:\/\/www.fda.gov\/animal-veterinary\/animal-health-literacy\/think-food-safety-and-be-salmonella-safe<\/a><\/p>\n FDA. Potentially dangerous items for pets, including grapes and raisins: https:\/\/www.fda.gov\/animal-veterinary\/animal-health-literacy\/potentially-dangerous-items-your-pet<\/a><\/p>\n3. Sardines: a direct source of EPA and DHA<\/h2>\n
4. Vegetables, fruit and berries: variety in small amounts<\/h2>\n
5. Suitable leftovers: not everything on our plates<\/h2>\n
How much of the diet can consist of extras?<\/h2>\n
My dogs, Irene\u2019s Peku and real-life food bowls<\/h2>\n
FendaF\u2019s practical recommendation<\/h2>\n
Frequently asked questions<\/h2>\n
Is it better to offer eggs raw or boiled?<\/h3>\n
Is yoghurt the same as a probiotic?<\/h3>\n
Can dogs eat canned fish?<\/h3>\n
Can dogs eat grapes or raisins?<\/h3>\n
Is adding 25% fresh food always safe?<\/h3>\n
Sources<\/h3>\n