A Confused Dog: What Should You Pay Attention To?

Reading time: about 8 min

We talk to our dogs every day. Some of us more, some less, but it is easy to assume that we communicate brilliantly. I read Dr Karen Shaw Becker’s discussion of ten habits that can confuse dogs or undermine their wellbeing. Dogs do not speak our language. They learn largely from repeated actions, body language and consequences. If the rules keep changing, they may not understand what we expect. Here are ten situations in which we can make life clearer for our dogs.

Ten things to watch for when your dog seems confused

Punishing a dog for toileting in the wrong place

I remember people pushing a puppy’s nose into its own urine after an accident indoors when I was a child. Looking back, it is awful. That does not teach a puppy where to go; it may teach the puppy to fear people. Clean up calmly and ask whether the dog had enough opportunities to go outside. If a previously house-trained adult dog suddenly has accidents, investigate possible health issues too.

Dr Becker emphasises positive house-training. Praise success at the right moment, immediately after the dog toilets outside, for example. Punishment and intimidation do not help a dog understand our expectations.

Once a puppy or dog has had an accident indoors, the opportunity for a successful outdoor toilet break has already passed. Simply clean up and try to prevent the next accident.

Turning a crate into a prison

A crate is not inherently good or bad. It can be a safe den if a dog has become accustomed to it voluntarily and gradually. But it must not be a punishment or a place where the dog is left for long periods just because we are busy. Be especially careful with dogs that panic in crates or experience separation anxiety. Closing the door does not address the underlying problem.

When introduced correctly, a crate can help with travel and some aspects of house-training. It must, however, suit the individual dog. If a dog cannot settle there, force will not persuade them. Another quiet, safe resting place may serve the same purpose.

If you are cautious about crates, look at your dog’s behaviour rather than simply following other owners’ opinions. Does the dog enter voluntarily? Can they rest calmly there? These questions matter more than the idea that every dog must love a crate.

In our experience, dogs can be taught to accept a crate, and we consider it a sensible safety measure for puppies.

Ignoring the value of playtime

When we scroll on our phones during walks or throw a toy while concentrating on something else, the quality of our time together suffers. I sometimes find myself rushing too, but for a dog, stopping and sniffing can be the most important part of a walk. Sniffing provides mental stimulation and information about the environment. Slow down sometimes and let your dog investigate a scent for longer.

You could call this dog-centred care: noticing whether the dog is curious, tired, worried or simply wants to pause. If their health permits, a long sniffing break may be worth more than another kilometre covered in a hurry.

Pekwa and Oscar taught Irene and me a lot about this. In his old age, Pekwa could take 20–25 minutes to walk one kilometre because he needed to inspect every scent. When Oscar was recovering from a staphylococcal infection, he had barely moved for more than a month. We walked slowly, taking roughly 16–18 minutes per kilometre. The goal was not a record, but the chance to sniff and reconnect with the outside world. Those moments reminded me whose walk it really was.

Dr Becker advises being fully present when playing or interacting with your dog. Focus on the dog and your shared activity. If you throw a toy and your dog brings it back, praise them enthusiastically. On walks, try seeing the experience from the dog’s perspective. Allow sniffing and stopping, and make the walk enjoyable for them.

Not teaching basic skills

Behaviour problems are a major reason dogs end up in shelters, struggle to find permanent homes and, tragically, may be euthanised.

Dr Becker recommends beginning basic training when a puppy comes home, around eight weeks of age, and enrolling newly adopted adult dogs in training promptly. She also suggests refresher training every few years, or whenever age-related behaviour changes call for help.

Reward-based training does not mean having no boundaries. It means clearly teaching desired behaviour and rewarding progress without fear or pain. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) recommends reward-based methods and warns about the potential consequences of punishment-based approaches.

Skipping health checks

If you wait until your dog looks visibly ill before arranging a check-up, you may miss early signs. Preventive examinations do not mean running every possible test at every visit; a sensible plan depends on age, risks and findings.

If we do not actively support health through thoughtful lifestyle choices, we may allow it to deteriorate. Maintaining health takes effort rather than happening automatically.

A broader wellbeing assessment may cover nutrition, body and muscle condition, dental health, movement, sleep, environmental stress and behavioural changes. This whole-dog perspective is what appeals to me about integrative veterinary medicine: one symptom rarely exists in isolation. Any treatments considered must nevertheless be safe and supported by transparent reasoning.

Overlooking a dog’s natural athletic abilities

A dog’s body needs movement and their mind needs activity. Not every dog needs to run or undertake intense exercise, though. Activity can support muscle mass, weight management and mood, but behaviour problems are not always caused by insufficient exercise. Pain, anxiety or environmental stress may matter much more.

Even a large garden does not automatically provide enough activity. Instead of prescribing one number of intense-exercise minutes for every dog, consider individual abilities and needs. Some enjoy brisk walks, others benefit from scent work and balance exercises, and some enjoy both.

PS: An ordinary walk does not always have to be a hard workout. A sniffing walk has value even when the heart rate barely rises. :)

Failing to socialise your dog appropriately

Socialisation means giving a dog, preferably from puppyhood, safe and positive exposure to a variety of people, animals, environments and experiences without overwhelming them. Everyday sights, sounds and smells all play a part.

Meeting new people, animals and places should be calm and manageable. Overly intense “socialisation” can deepen fear instead. The goal is not for a dog to greet every stranger, but to feel safe in unfamiliar situations.

Neglecting teeth and nails

Dr Becker recommends brushing teeth several times a week at minimum, ideally every day. Dental and gum disease is common in dogs older than three, and untreated problems can worsen, causing bad breath and tooth loss.

I should say that Irene and I have not consistently brushed our dogs’ teeth. We have offered dried chews and raw meaty bones. That is our experience, but chewing does not replace toothbrushing or veterinary oral examinations. Very hard chews, including bones, can fracture teeth or injure the digestive tract. Always consider the individual dog.

If a dog dislikes mouth care, teach it gradually: start by touching the lip, then briefly lifting it, and only later introducing the toothbrush. This shows how positive training and preventive veterinary care can support each other.

Nails also need regular trimming. How often depends on growth and how much time the dog spends on surfaces that naturally wear them down. If you cannot trim them yourself, find someone who can help. Overgrown nails can cause serious paw problems.

Choosing or using the wrong collar, harness or lead

Dr Becker notes that pressure on a collar is not suitable for every dog. Be particularly careful with dogs that lunge, have tracheal disease or neck and back problems. A well-fitting harness can distribute pressure more appropriately. What matters is not only the equipment’s name but its fit and use.

Extra caution is needed for dogs that pull or lunge on the lead, are prone to tracheal collapse, have seizures or have back and neck problems. Collars can sometimes contribute to neck and back issues.

Prong collars and sudden lead jerks can cause pain and fear. Choose appropriate equipment and teach loose-lead walking using rewards. Retractable leads may provide insufficient control in traffic or near other dogs. For dogs that lunge or are very anxious, work with a qualified reward-based trainer.

Not teaching your dog to accept handling

Gentle touch and cuddling can help dogs become comfortable with having their paws, ears and mouths examined. But the goal is not to restrain them by force. Teach handling in small steps, reward calm cooperation and allow breaks.

When a puppy or adult dog learns to feel safe during handling, nail trimming and spotting health concerns become easier. I like the shared principle behind integrative care and “cooperative care”: the dog’s sense of safety is part of healthcare, not merely a nice extra.

Sources and further reading

AVSAB, Humane Dog Training: https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/

AAHA, Canine and Feline Behavior Management Guidelines: https://www.aaha.org/resources/2015-aaha-canine-and-feline-behavior-management-guidelines/

Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine, Dental Disease and Home Dental Care: https://www.vet.cornell.edu/departments-centers-and-institutes/riney-canine-health-center/canine-health-information/dental-disease-and-home-dental-care

Original inspiration: Dr Karen Shaw Becker, ten situations that may confuse dogs: https://www.barkandwhiskers.com/

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