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10 Things to Teach Your Puppy

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10 asja mida kutsikale õpetada - FendaF EN

10 Things to Teach Your Puppy

Reading time: about 7 min

When a puppy arrives in your home, life changes quickly. One minute you are holding an adorable little ball of fur; the next, that same ball of fur is trying to redesign your dining-table leg. 😄 Raising a puppy does not require repeating commands all day, but there are ten skills and experiences I would focus on from the first few weeks.

I originally drew inspiration from Dr Karen Shaw Becker’s advice on puppies. I agree with much of it, but I want to emphasise that teaching a puppy is not simply about “sit” and “down”. Learning to settle, trust their person and cope safely with unfamiliar situations is just as important.

1. Discovering the world safely

The first months of a puppy’s life are especially important for socialisation. The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB) identifies the first three months as a particularly sensitive period. This does not mean a dog cannot learn anything after 12 or 16 weeks. Learning continues throughout life; the early weeks simply offer a valuable opportunity.

Socialisation does not mean making a puppy meet as many unfamiliar dogs as possible or taking them to noisy events. Rather, allow them to experience different people, sounds, surfaces and situations at a calm pace they can manage. A few trustworthy, vaccinated adult dogs or a well-run puppy class can offer a far better experience than a crowded dog park. Consider local infectious-disease risks and your veterinarian’s vaccination advice, but do not automatically postpone all safe socialisation until the final vaccination.

2. Learning to be alone calmly

Moving into a new home is a major change for a puppy. At first they need time to get to know their person and surroundings. Even so, it makes sense to practise brief periods when you are not in the same room. Start with seconds, not an entire working day. Return before your puppy becomes very distressed, and gradually increase the duration.

Some dogs benefit from a crate or pen as a safe den; others prefer a familiar, quiet room. A crate should never be a punishment or a way to leave a panicking puppy to “cry it out”. If your puppy panics, make the exercise easier. Practising short absences can support independence, but it cannot guarantee that separation-related distress will never develop.

3. Housetraining without punishment

A puppy is not born knowing that the living-room rug is the wrong place to pee. Take your puppy outside after waking, eating and playing, and reward them immediately for toileting in the right place. That helps them understand what you want. Punishing indoor accidents does not teach an appropriate location; it may simply teach the puppy to hide from you.

If your puppy cannot yet hold their bladder for long, they need more frequent outings and a predictable, calm routine. Consistency is more useful than a raised voice.

With Irene, we have used the cue “piss-piss-piss” with all our dogs from day one. At first we said it gently when the puppy was already beginning to urinate and rewarded them afterwards. Once the dog connected the word with the action, we could use it beforehand as well. In our experience, this can also be helpful with an adult dog when you need them to toilet a little sooner.

4. What is safe to chew?

Chewing is natural for puppies, especially while teething. If you do not provide appropriate things to chew, they may discover that sofa corners and shoelaces are fascinating too. Choose chews that suit puppy teeth, generally softer options, and replace them before they break into small pieces that could be swallowed.

I have started shaping chewing habits early with my own dogs. For their first chews I preferred cartilaginous ears that were soft enough but large enough not to be gulped down immediately. That is my personal practice, not a universal recipe. The important distinction is that size does not tell you how hard a chew is, and puppies need supervision while chewing. I discuss chewing habits, including Peku’s change in behaviour, in the separate article “Dogs and Bones”.

5. Good behaviour brings good things

Reward-based training means noticing a behaviour you want and giving your puppy something they value: a treat, play, praise or the chance to continue an enjoyable activity. AVSAB recommends reward-based methods for teaching dogs and addressing behaviour problems. Jerking a collar, frightening a dog and physical punishment may stop a reaction momentarily, but they do little to teach the dog what to do instead.

I would rather have a puppy who wants to cooperate with me than one who constantly worries about making a mistake. Agree on a few short words or cues within the family and use them consistently.

6. Learning can be play

Puppies do not need long training sessions. A few minutes at a time, several times a day, are often enough. You can teach a response to their name, calm attention, bringing back a toy or a simple recall. Stop before your puppy becomes overtired. If they start biting uncontrollably, do not immediately assume they have a “bad temperament”: sometimes they simply need sleep.

I like to think that a puppy’s ability to learn is not determined by how much we can squeeze into one day. What matters is how cooperation feels to them.

7. Coming when called

Recall is one of the most important skills because it could one day save your dog from real danger. Begin at a short distance in a quiet room. When your puppy comes, something good happens. Later, add distance and mild distractions. In more challenging environments, use a long training line to keep your dog safe.

Do not call your dog only when fun is about to end or something unpleasant is about to happen. If you need to trim their nails or give medication, you can bring them to you calmly in another way. The recall cue should remain something worth responding to.

8. Touch and grooming can feel safe

At the vet, during nail trims or while checking ears, dogs sometimes need to be touched in places they would not choose themselves. At home, start with very brief, gentle touches, reward calm participation and allow the puppy to step away when needed. Gradually practise checking paws, ears and the mouth.

The aim is not to force a dog to tolerate everything under all circumstances. Cooperative care gives them a chance to participate, reduces stress and helps you notice sooner when something genuinely hurts.

9. Car rides and other everyday situations

Some puppies adjust to cars immediately; others fear the noise or feel nauseated. Begin with brief, calm periods in a stationary car before progressing to short journeys. If your puppy repeatedly becomes carsick, practice alone will not solve the problem: ask your veterinarian for advice. During journeys, secure your puppy using an appropriate carrier or properly fitted dog safety harness.

The same gradual approach works for introducing a brush, hairdryer, raincoat and other everyday objects. Give your dog time to learn that unfamiliar things do not automatically mean discomfort.

10. Trust underpins everything

Standing up for your dog also means not allowing others to handle them roughly, overwhelm them or frighten them in the name of “training”. If a puppy is afraid, you do not need to push them closer to a frightening situation so they will “get used to it”. Increase the distance, help them settle and provide a better experience next time.

I want my dog to learn from a young age that when something is difficult, they can come to me for help and clarity. That foundation grows into much more than ten skills.

A simple training plan for your puppy’s first week

  1. Have two or three short, reward-based sessions each day rather than one exhausting training marathon.
  2. Introduce one or two new situations at a time, stopping while the puppy is still curious and calm.
  3. Take your puppy outside after waking, eating and playing; reward toileting in the right place.
  4. Offer a suitably sized, softer chew under supervision and practise very brief periods alone.
  5. If your puppy panics, limps, cannot rest or develops an unexplained change in behaviour, reduce the demands and seek advice from a veterinarian or qualified behaviour professional if needed.

Raising a puppy is a long process, not an exam that must be passed by the sixteenth week. The early months are an opportunity to build a strong foundation, but your dog’s ability to learn, and your ability to support them, continues long afterwards.

Sources

American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). Puppy Socialization Position Statement: https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/

AVSAB. Humane Dog Training Position Statement (2021 statement, reaffirmed in 2025): https://avsab.org/resources/position-statements/

AVSAB. What are Reward-Based Training Methods for Dogs (and Cats)?, 2024: https://avsab.org/what-are-reward-based-training-methods-for-dogs-and-cats/

ASPCA. Position Statement on Dog Chews/Treats: https://www.aspca.org/about-us/aspca-policy-and-position-statements/position-statement-dog-chewstreats

FendaF. Dogs and Bones: https://fendaf.ee/en/health/dogs-and-bones-chewing-habits/


🐾 FendaF believes in informed choices

The purpose of the FendaF blog is not to tell you what you must do. Our aim is to share knowledge, introduce different evidence-based and integrative perspectives, and help you make more informed decisions for your pet.

Every animal is unique, and no article can replace a consultation, diagnosis or treatment provided by a veterinarian. If your pet has a health concern or you need individual advice, always contact a veterinarian.


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